As I mentioned in my post about 1970s dinner parties, Mateus Rosé was an iconic wine of that era. But what’s the story behind this famous Portuguese pink wine that became a global phenomenon? Let’s take a closer look at the history, marketing, and enduring legacy of Mateus Rosé.
The Birth of a Wine Legend
Mateus Rosé was created in 1942 by Fernando van Zeller Guedes, the founder of Sogrape Vinhos. The wine was named after the Mateus Palace, an 18th-century baroque mansion in Vila Real, Portugal, which appears on the bottle’s label. Guedes had a vision to create a wine that would appeal to international tastes and help put Portuguese wines on the global map (https://www.mateusrose.com/en/our-story/).
The timing of Mateus Rosé’s creation was significant. During World War II, Portugal remained neutral, which allowed Sogrape to continue producing and exporting wine while many other European wine regions were disrupted. This gave Mateus a unique opportunity to establish itself in international markets.
A Distinctive Bottle for a Distinctive Wine
One of the most recognisable features of Mateus Rosé is its distinctive bottle shape. The flask-like design was inspired by the water canteens used by soldiers during World War I. This unique packaging set Mateus apart from other wines on the shelf and became an integral part of its brand identity.
The wine itself was also quite different from what most consumers were used to. Mateus Rosé was a light, fruity, and slightly sparkling pink wine – a stark contrast to the heavier red wines that dominated the market at the time. Its approachable flavour profile and attractive colour made it particularly appealing to new wine drinkers.
Marketing Mateus: A Global Strategy
The success of Mateus Rosé wasn’t just down to its unique bottle and pleasant taste. Sogrape implemented a clever and far-reaching marketing strategy that helped propel the brand to international fame.
One of the most innovative marketing tactics employed by Fernando van Zeller Guedes was to send two bottles of Mateus Rosé to every Portuguese ambassador and consul around the world. He instructed them to drink one bottle themselves and give the other to someone who could help promote and distribute the wine in their respective countries. This grassroots approach helped Mateus gain a foothold in numerous international markets (https://concoursmondial.com/en/mateus-the-success-story-of-portugals-best-selling-rose-wine/).
Mateus also benefited from some fortuitous celebrity endorsements. In the 1960s, Queen Elizabeth II reportedly asked for a glass of Mateus Rosé at a private party at the Savoy Hotel in London. The hotel didn’t have any in stock, and the manager had to rush out to buy a bottle. This incident became a great advertisement for the brand and helped cement its popularity in the UK and beyond.
Other famous Mateus fans included Jimi Hendrix, who was photographed drinking it straight from the bottle, and Elton John. These celebrity associations helped position Mateus as a fashionable, aspirational drink.
The 1970s: Mateus at its Peak
By the 1970s, Mateus Rosé had become a global phenomenon. It was particularly popular in the UK and the United States, where it was seen as a sophisticated European wine. The brand’s success was staggering – by 1978, Mateus was selling 3.5 million cases annually, accounting for a whopping 40% of Portugal’s total wine exports (https://wineeconomist.com/2020/05/19/mateus/).
In the UK, Mateus was imported and distributed by Hedges & Butler, a company with a royal warrant that helped lend the wine an air of prestige. In the US, the brand was handled by various importers over the years, including Dreyfus Ashby & Co. and later, Palm Bay International.
The wine’s popularity extended beyond just drinking. Many people kept the distinctive bottles to use as candle holders, creating a kind of second life for the brand in home decor. This practice became so common that it was even used as a selling point by some retailers.
Why Was Mateus So Popular?
Several factors contributed to the immense popularity of Mateus Rosé in the 1970s:
- Accessibility: Mateus was sweet, light, and easy to drink, making it appealing to novice wine drinkers.
- Affordability: While not the cheapest wine on the market, Mateus was reasonably priced, making it accessible to a wide range of consumers.
- Exotic appeal: For many consumers, especially in the UK and US, Mateus represented a taste of continental sophistication.
- Distinctive packaging: The unique bottle shape made Mateus stand out on store shelves and in people’s minds.
- Effective marketing: Sogrape’s innovative marketing strategies and celebrity associations helped build the brand’s popularity.
- Versatility: Mateus was marketed as a wine that could be enjoyed in various settings, from casual gatherings to more formal occasions.
Competitors and Market Share
While Mateus dominated the rosé market in the 1970s, it wasn’t without competition. Other popular rosé wines of the era included:
- Lancers: Another Portuguese rosé with a distinctive bottle shape.
- Blue Nun: A German white wine that, like Mateus, was sweet and accessible to new wine drinkers.
- Lambrusco: A sweet, sparkling red wine from Italy that gained popularity in the 1970s and 1980s.
- Domestic rosés: In the US, brands like Sutter Home White Zinfandel began to gain traction in the late 1970s.
Despite this competition, Mateus maintained a significant market share throughout the 1970s. Its 40% share of Portuguese wine exports in 1978 is a testament to its dominance. In many markets, particularly the UK, Mateus was virtually synonymous with rosé wine.
The Decline of Mateus
As the 1980s progressed, Mateus began to lose its grip on the market. Several factors contributed to this decline:
- Changing tastes: Wine drinkers began to favour drier wines, moving away from the sweeter style of Mateus.
- Market saturation: The success of Mateus had led to many imitators, flooding the market with similar wines.
- Image problem: As tastes became more sophisticated, Mateus began to be seen as outdated and unsophisticated.
- Competition: The rise of New World wines, particularly from Australia and California, provided stiff competition.
- Lack of innovation: Sogrape was slow to adapt to changing consumer preferences, sticking with its original formula for too long.
By the 1990s, Mateus had lost much of its market share and cultural cachet. The brand that had once been a symbol of sophistication was now often seen as a relic of the past, associated more with 1970s kitsch than quality wine.
The Reinvention of Mateus
Despite its decline, Mateus never completely disappeared from the market; it continued to sell millions of bottles annually, particularly in markets where it had established a strong presence. However, Sogrape recognised the need to update the brand for modern consumers.
In the early 2000s, Sogrape began a process of reinventing Mateus. This involved several key changes:
- Reducing sugar content: The original Mateus was reformulated to be less sweet, aligning with contemporary tastes.
- Introducing new varieties: Alongside the original rosé, Sogrape launched new products like Mateus Sparkling and Mateus Dry Rosé.
- Updating the packaging: While retaining the iconic bottle shape, the label and overall presentation were modernised.
- Refocusing marketing efforts: New campaigns aimed to reposition Mateus as a modern, versatile wine.
These efforts have helped Mateus regain some of its former glory. While it may never again reach the heights of its 1970s heyday, Mateus remains a significant player in the global wine market. As of 2020, the brand was selling around 20 million bottles annually in over 120 countries (https://www.indianwineacademy.com/articles/item_6_931/).
Mateus in the 21st Century
Today, Mateus faces a very different wine market than it did in the 1970s. The rosé category has exploded in popularity, with countless brands competing for consumer attention. Provence rosés, with their pale pink colour and dry taste, have become particularly fashionable.
In response, Sogrape has continued to innovate with the Mateus brand. The Mateus Dry Rosé, launched in the US market, is a direct response to the trend for drier rosé wines. With just 4 grams per litre of residual sugar (compared to 15 grams in the original), it’s a significant departure from the sweet Mateus of old.
The brand has also embraced modern marketing techniques, including social media campaigns and partnerships with influencers. However, it also continues to trade on its heritage, emphasising its long history and iconic status.
The Legacy of Mateus
Looking back, it’s clear that Mateus played a significant role in shaping the modern wine market. Here are a few key aspects of its legacy:
- Popularising rosé: Mateus helped introduce many consumers to rosé wine, paving the way for the category’s current popularity.
- Innovative marketing: Sogrape’s marketing strategies for Mateus were ahead of their time and influenced how wine is marketed globally.
- Packaging innovation: The distinctive Mateus bottle demonstrated the importance of standout packaging in the wine industry.
- Globalisation of wine: Mateus was one of the first truly global wine brands, helping to create the international wine market we know today.
- Portuguese wine industry: The success of Mateus provided a significant boost to the Portuguese wine industry, putting it on the global map.
Mateus and Me: A Personal Reflection
As someone who came of age in the 1970s, Mateus Rosé holds a special place in my memories. For me, it was one of the wines we sold in the Botley Wine Stores our family-owned off-licence in Oxford. It was often the first “proper” wine many of us tried, a step up from the sweet, fizzy wines we might have sipped at family gatherings.
I remember the excitement of bringing a bottle of Mateus to a party, feeling quite sophisticated with its unique bottle and European provenance. And yes, I’ll admit to having used a few empty Mateus bottles as candle holders!
Looking back, it’s easy to be a bit snobbish about Mateus. It wasn’t a complex or challenging wine, and its sweetness might make many of us wince now. But I think it’s important to recognise the role it played in introducing a generation to wine drinking.
For many of us, Mateus was a gateway to the wider world of wine. It sparked an interest that led us to explore other wines, regions, and styles. In that sense, we owe a debt of gratitude to this humble Portuguese rosé.
The Future of Mateus
So what does the future hold for Mateus? While it may never again achieve the market dominance it enjoyed in the 1970s, the brand seems well-positioned to continue as a significant player in the wine world.
The rosé category continues to grow, and while consumer preferences have shifted towards drier styles, there’s still a place for sweeter, more accessible wines. Mateus has shown its ability to adapt, with products like Mateus Dry Rosé catering to changing tastes.
Moreover, as wine drinkers become more adventurous and open to trying wines from different regions, Portugal’s wine industry as a whole is gaining more recognition. This could create new opportunities for heritage brands like Mateus.
There’s also a certain nostalgia factor that could work in Mateus’s favour. As children of the 1970s and 1980s reach middle age, there might be a renewed interest in the wines of their youth. We’ve seen similar trends in fashion and music, so why not wine?
Wrapping Up: The Enduring Appeal of Mateus
The story of Mateus Rosé is more than just a tale of a successful wine brand. It’s a story about changing tastes, innovative marketing, and the globalisation of wine. It’s also a story about how a humble wine from Portugal managed to capture the imagination of millions of drinkers around the world.
While Mateus may no longer be the cultural phenomenon it once was, its impact on the wine world is undeniable. From its innovative bottle design to its groundbreaking marketing strategies, Mateus helped shape the modern wine industry.
For those of us who remember the 1970s, Mateus will always hold a special place in our memories – a taste of our youth and our first forays into the world of wine. And for younger wine drinkers, it remains a piece of living history, a chance to taste a wine that helped shape the industry as we know it today.
So the next time you’re planning a 1970s-themed dinner party, or just feeling a bit nostalgic, why not pick up a bottle of Mateus? You might be surprised by how this blast from the past holds up in the present day. After all, there’s a reason why, after more than 75 years, people are still talking about – and drinking – Mateus Rosé.
Resources and Further Reading
- https://www.kevinharrington.com/2008/12/1970s-dinner-party-menu/
- https://blog.iwfs.org/2016/11/there-is-a-palace-revisiting-the-mateus-rose-phenomenon/
- https://thisdayinwinehistory.com/mateus-rose-the-greatest-success-in-portugals-wine-history/
- https://www.christopherpiperwines.co.uk/blogs/rose-wine/mateus-rose-the-original-rose
- https://blog.iwfs.org/2015/09/10-food-and-wine-trends-from-the-1970s/
- https://australianfoodtimeline.com.au/mateus-rose/
- https://concoursmondial.com/en/mateus-the-success-story-of-portugals-best-selling-rose-wine/
- https://pleasebringmemywine.com/mateus-rose-i-had-to-give-it-a-go/
- https://www.mateusrose.com/en/our-story/
- https://www.indianwineacademy.com/articles/item_6_931/
- https://wineeconomist.com/2020/05/19/mateus/
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